Mount Everest (8848.86m) is the highest peak in the world, which offers two major climbing routes namely the Southeast Ridge through Nepal side which is also known as South Face Route and the Northeast Ridge through Tibet side route or North Face route. Every year, hundreds of mountaineers dreaming about climbing a tallest peak on earth – Mt. Everest. But, before planning to climb Mount Everest, many climbers carefully compare the challenges of the Everest North vs South Face Route to decide which side better suits their skills and ambitions.
Of the two, Southeast Ridge of Mount Everest is a technically less demanding, more public and standard route.
But the north face route is a product of more geopolitical circumstances than climbing inclination, because the Chinese border remained closed to the Western world through the 1950s. Most efforts at the summit are made in May, just before the onset of the summer monsoon.
Following guide will assure you the choice between the Everest north vs south face route, their respective route overview, technical difficulties, safety and fatality rates, success rates, logistics and costs, weather condition, base camp differences, crowds and rescue facility, cultural and scenery experience as well as budget climb route.
Table of Contents
South Face/Southeast Ridge/ Standard Route – Nepal side
Climbers should hike through the Nepal’s Sagarmatha National Park to a lower Base Camp at 5,364 meters for expedition via the southeast ridge. The Southeast Ridge is also called Standard Route. Mountaineers should climb Everest via dangerous Khumbu Icefall with broken ice and deep crevices, then climb the steep Lhotse Face with Sherpa support and fixed ropes. From the South face, at around 7,900 meters, ascenders take a shorter 12 to 14-hour climb to the summit via the Hillary Step and the ridge. The south face or standard route is more effective with a higher success ratio and a livelier base camp, but gets horribly crowded and is not safe in the Icefall. It is best for commercial climbers who prefer guided support.
North Face Route/Northeast Ridge – Tibet side
Mountaineers start from Tibet’s frigid Tingri County and climb higher to a Base Camp at 5,180 meters for expedition via the Northeast Ridge. The final climb to the summit generally begins around 8,300 meters and takes 14 to 18 hours or longer using the North Face Route of Mount Everest. Climbers have to climb over the Three Steps, especially the steep Second Step with a fixed ladder. The climbing is much tougher in the Northeast Ridge. However, the North Face route offers fewer crowds than the other side.
Everest North vs South Face Route Itinerary
The South Face / Southeast Ridge/Standard Route Itinerary
Trekkers should do 7-8 Days Everest Base Camp Trek to acclimatize, the trekking will be assisted by guide and porters in the Southeast Ridge. Before staring the climbing season, Sherpa climbers (also known as icefall doctor) fixed the ropes through the hazardous Khumbu Icefall to provide support for climbers. In the South Face, mountaineers ascend through Camps I and II in the Western Cwm, thereafter ascenders climb the near-vertical Lhotse Face to Camps III and IV on the South Col. From this stage of the expedition, the oxygen-depleted “death zone,” a pre-dawn summit attempt uses fixed ropes through the Balcony, South Summit, Cornice Traverse, and the typically plugged Hillary Step. Summit stays will be brief, which is less than 30 minutes because of exhaustion and thin air, then climber should return to Camp.
The table shows the route overview from the South face of Mount Everest.
| Stage | Altitude (m/ft) | Key Feature |
| Lukla | 2,860 m / 9,383 ft | Mountain flight entry |
| Base Camp | 5,380 m / 17,700 ft | Acclimatization hub on Khumbu Glacier |
| Camp I | 6,065 m / 19,900 ft | After Icefall, in Western Cwm |
| Camp II (ABC) | 6,500 m / 21,300 ft | Below Lhotse Face |
| Camp III | 7,470 m / 24,500 ft | Midway up Lhotse Face |
| Camp IV (South Col) | 7,920 m / 26,000 ft | Entry to the Death Zone |
| The Balcony | 8,400 m / 27,600 ft | First rest on summit push |
| South Summit | 8,750 m / 28,700 ft | False summit |
| Hillary Step | 8,790 m / 28,840 ft | Vertical rock climb near summit |
| Summit | 8,848.86 m / 29,031.7 ft | Highest point on Earth |
The North Face Route/ Northeast Ridge itinerary
Climbers have to start the North Face route on Tibet side by trekking to Base Camp along the Rongbuk Glacier after the drive. After that, teams proceed along the east Rongbuk Glacier to Camp II near Changtse and establish Camp III (ABC). Climbers have to climb to Camp IV on the North Col of the Northeast ridge with the support of fixed ropes. Then, ascender climb the North Ridge of Mount Everest to Camp V, move across the North Face to Camp VI, and tackle three rock steps (First, Second featuring the Chinese ladder, and Third). Finally, ascenders climb a fifty-degree snow slope to the summit or the top of the World.
The table shows the route overview from the North Face Route /Northeast Ridge of Mount Everest.
| Stage | Altitude (m/ft) | Key Feature |
| Base Camp | 5,180 m / 16,990 ft | Vehicle-accessible, near Rongbuk Glacier |
| Intermediate Camp | ~6,100 m / ~20,000 ft | Approach via east Rongbuk Glacier |
| Advanced Base Camp | 6,500 m / 21,300 ft | Acclimatization hub below North Col |
| North Col – Camp IV | 7,010 m / 23,000 ft | Entry to Death Zone |
| Camp V | 7,775 m / 25,500 ft | On North Ridge, harsh exposure |
| Camp VI | 8,230 m / 27,000 ft | Below Yellow Band, final summit camp |
| First Step | 8,501 to 8,534 m | Easy scrambling |
| Second Step | 8,577 to 8,626 m | Vertical rock with Chinese ladder |
| Third Step | 8,690 to 8,800 m | Final rock section before summit slope |
| Summit | 8,848.86 m / 29,031.7 ft | Highest point on Earth |
Which route has more technical difficulties — Khumbu Icefall and Hillary Step or Second Step and Chinese Ladder?
On the South Face Route climbers have to face the unstable weather and crevasses of the Khumbu Icefall as the technical crux of the route, with multiple crossings and fixed ropes. The Hillary Step remains tricky even with modification due to rockfall. Climbers ought to climb steep ice, snow, and three major Steps on the Northeast Ridge, especially the almost vertical Second Step, with the Chinese Ladder creating bottlenecks during extreme cold, wind, and heavy exposure.
The comparison table displays the major differences between the South Face and North Face.
| Segment | South Face (Nepal) | North Face (Tibet) |
| Key Challenges | Khumbu Icefall, Lhotse Face, Hillary Step | Second Step, exposed ridge, rock face traverse |
| Artificial Aid | Fixed ropes, ladders (especially in Icefall) | Chinese Ladder at Second Step |
| Perceived Technicality | Higher due to Khumbu Icefall | More sustained high-altitude exposure |
Which route offers greater safety- The Everest North or South Face Route?
Icefall collapses, avalanches, falls on the Lhotse Face/ridge, altitude sickness, descent fatigue, and crowding delays cause fatalities are major hazards in the South Face route/Southeast Ridge of Mount Everest expedition. Likewise, severe cold/wind, HAPE/HACE, falls on the ridge/steps, exhaustion during the longer descent, and bottlenecks at the Second Step ladder prove dangerous are major hazards in the North Face Route/ Northeast Ridge in the expedition of Mount Everest.
Overall the North Face is riskier, with more fatalities due to harsher weather, longer death-zone exposure, and unavailable helicopter rescue above Camp 2, but possible on the Southeast Ridge. Therefore, the South face route is safer comparatively.
The comparison table displays the major differences between the South Face route and North Face Route.
| Factor | South Face (Nepal route) | North Face (Tibet route) |
| Primary Hazards | Khumbu Icefall, Avalanches, Falls, Crowding, Delays | Extreme Cold/Wind, Altitude Illness, Falls, Exhaustion |
| Fatality Rate (Historical Avg) | Slightly Lower overall (around1-3%) | Slightly Higher overall (around 2-4%) |
| Fatality Location | More common lower down (Icefall) & descent | More common high on the mountain & during descent |
| Rescue Capability | Strong, helicopter evac possible to ~6,400m (C2) & higher in emergencies. HRA posts. | Very Limited, primarily ground evacuation. Helicopter rescue is extremely rare & difficult above ABC. |
| Weather Impact | Significant, but slightly less severe extremes than North | More frequent severe wind events & extreme cold |
| Crowding Risk | High potential for bottlenecks (Icefall, Hillary Step, Summit Ridge) | Lower climber numbers, but severe bottleneck at Second Step ladder |
Which season is best for Mount Everest expedition?
The best times for a Mount Everest expedition are pre-monsoon season (spring) from late April to early June and post-monsoon (autumn) from late September to November in both the south face and north face route.
This is the reason why, spring offers more stable weather, warmer temperatures, and lighter winds, so spring is the most popular time for climbing. While autumn offers clearer skies and cooler temperatures but is less popular on the reason based on shorter daylight hours and colder temperatures.
Which route has more success Rates-Everest North or South Face Route?
The south face route has slightly higher summit success rates. The reason of high success rate of this route are longer acclimatization days, helicopter rescue option and more stable weather. The trekking to Everest South Base Camp has natural acclimatization, whereas there is a faster car access to the North Base Camp, so the North face route requires more careful, extended physiological protocols to minimize HAPE/HACE risk. Definite permit regulation by Nepal through the Mountaineering Expedition Regulation (2002) provides structured seasonal quotas
The comparison table displays the major differences between the South Face and North Face.
| Factor | South Face (Nepal Route) | North Face (Tibet) |
| Primary Season | Mid-April to End May | Mid-April to End May (Often peaks later) |
| Autumn Attempts | Rare, low success | Very rare, extremely low success |
| Avg. Summit Success Rate (Spring) | Slightly Higher (50-65% on good weather years)* | Slightly Lower (45-60% on good weather years)* |
| Key Success Factors | Weather windows, Icefall timing, Crowd management, Acclimatization from trek | Weather windows (esp. wind), Cold tolerance, Acclimatization protocol |
| Typical Summit Day | Shorter from South Col (~10-14 hours) | Longer from high camp (~14-18+ hours) |
How much does a Mount Everest expedition cost in terms of permits, fees, and royalties?
The Nepalese government, via the Department of Tourism, charges an $15,000 for the south face route permit for Spring along with liaison officer charges, insurance, and a garbage deposit refundable in case of no trash.
China’s China Tibet Mountaineering Association CTMA offers North Face route permits $15,800, although climbers must use state-approved agencies, adding to cost overall. While south face or Nepal route provides better infrastructure and insurance regulation by the government; North face route climbs are more restrictive and with fluctuating Chinese policies.
The comparison table displays the major differences between the South Face and North Face.
| Factor | Southeast Ridge (Nepal route) | Northeast (Tibet route) |
| Climbing Permit Cost (spring season: March- May) | $15,000 USD (Department of Tourism) | $15800 USD (CTMA) (covers transportation from the border to base camp and back, and basic accommodations along the route) |
| Autumn season (Sep-Nov): | $7,500 | |
| Monsoon/Winter seasons: | $3,750 | |
| Permit Validity: | Reduced to 55 days. | |
| Insurance: | around $37,593 | |
| Total Estimated Cost | Up to 100,000+ USD (Varies hugely by operator/service level) | Up to 90,000+ USD (Mandatory agency bundles) |
| Access to Base Camp | Fly Lukla -> 10-14 day trek (Superb acclimatization) | Drive Kathmandu/Lhasa -> Tingri/Dram -> 4WD/Trek (Faster, less acclimatization) |
| Logistics Control | Choose from many independent Nepalese/Western operators | Must use designated Chinese state-owned agencies |
| Average Climbers per Season (Spring) | High: 300-400+ (Based on Department of tourism permits) | Lower: 150-250 |
| Garbage Deposit | Mandatory SPCC deposit (Refundable) | Mandatory CTMA deposit (Refundable) |
Is transportation available to reach the Southeast Ridge and Northeast Ridge?
For the Southeast Ridge/ Nepal Route, typically climber can fly to Lukla and should hike 6-8 days to reach Everest Base Camp. So, transport facility is limited in the south face route.
For the Northeast Ridge, it can be driven from Kathmandu or Lhasa to Tingri/Dram and then 4WD to Chinese Base Camp, and using trek or vehicle option to Advanced Base Camp (ABC). The North route is complex with border limitations and CTMA agency mandatory use. There is well established transport facility to the north face route of Mount Everest.
Which route has more crowed level?
Department of Nepal Tourism permit figures always indicate many more sold permits for the South side/Southeast Ridge expedition. This is typically two or three times as many as the Northeast Ridge in recent years. This leads to widely reported crowd issues in the Icefall, at the South face route or Nepal side. The side toward the North face route tends to be less congested or low crowed level. However, the cluster of people waiting at the Second Step ladder can be restrictive.
What is the elevation gain of the North Face compared to the South Face Route?
Both the South Face and North Face routes ascend to 8,848.86m. The early ascent profile of Mount Everest’s South Face is gentler due to the hike from Lukla at 2800 meters. But North Face route subject to climbers to high altitude (ABC ~6,500m) earlier by road, thereby increasing HAPE/HACE risk.
Which route has betters weather/climate condition?
The North Face is particularly windy and cold weather as a result of its more exposed position. Wind chills on the summit day typically reach -60°C to -70°C. The south face route is also extremely cold and windy, but marginally less severe is what the Southeast Ridge usually endures. Thus, south face route has slightly better weather condition than the north face route.
Which route offers better acclimatization?
The trekking to the south face route of Everest Base Camp has a gentle altitude ascents through Namche Bazaar and naturally acclimatizing mountaineers, thereby reducing exposure to Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS). In the case of the North face route poses a steeper climb, forcing mountaineers to employ formalized rotation at high elevations, hindering acclimatization, thereby raising the risk of High-Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE).
The comparison table displays the major differences between the South Face and North Face route.
| Feature | Southeast Ridge (Nepal) | Northeast Ridge (Tibet) |
| Acclimatization | Gradual (trekking approach) | Rapid (vehicle access to Base Camp) |
| Wind Conditions | Moderate | Harsher, especially above Camp III |
| Oxygen Use | Starts higher due to Icefall exertion | Used more for prolonged summit exposure |
What are the major difference between the base Camp of the South Route and North Route?
The South Everest Base Camp in Nepal is located at the elevation of 5,364 meters. The south base camp offers stunning views, better communication, and vibrant tent settlements that is reached through scenic Sherpa villages like Namche Bazaar and Lobuche. Therefore, the south face route has cultural immersion and gradual acclimatization process.
On the other hand, the Northeast Ridge Base Camp in Tibet is located at the elevation of 5,150 meters. The Northeast Ridge Base Camp is road-accessible but barren, windier, colder, and logistically tougher, thereby lacking greenery and rich local interaction.
The comparison table displays the major differences between the South Face and the North Face.
| Base Camp Comparison | South Face (Nepal) | North Face (Tibet) |
| Access Type | Trek (8 days) via Namche and Dingboche | Jeep or bus (via Lhasa or Kerung) |
| Elevation | 5,364 meters | 5,150 meters |
| Cultural Immersion | Strong Sherpa presence, local lodges | Limited interaction, high-altitude plateau |
Which side offers helicopter evacuation?
The south face of Mount Everest of Nepal side has reliable and better high-altitude helicopter rescue services up to Camp 2 and sometimes beyond. The Helicopter evacuation services are conducted by experienced companies like Air Dynasty, Simrik and Fishtail air are saving many lives yearly.
In the opposite, the North Face/ Northeast Ridge (Tibet side) has only riskier land-based evacuations, thereby posing serious safety disadvantages.
The comparison table displays the major differences between the South Face and the North Face.
| Comparison Point | South Face (Nepal) | North Face (Tibet) |
| Helicopter Access | Yes (up to Camp II) | No official aerial rescue |
| Rescue Infrastructure | Multiple heliports, trained responders | Primarily ground-based, limited staff |
Which route offers a richer cultural and scenic experience?
The south face route of Mount Everest is a culturally rich due to the presence of Sherpa towns like Namche Bazaar and Tengboche, where visitors are witnessed by opulent Buddhist culture as well as hospitality. The journey will be unforgettable and marvelous because of shifting in landscape from rhododendron forests to glacial amphitheaters of Mount Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse.
On the other hand, the North Route takes place in a colder alpine desert with little cultural interaction and stark Tibetan-Chinese influences. This is the reason why the South face of Nepal offers more cultural and scenery experiences throughout the expedition.
The comparison table indicates the most prominent differences between the North Face and the South Face.
| Feature | South Face (Nepal) | North Face (Tibet) |
| Cultural Highlight | Sherpa hospitality, Tengboche Monastery | Tibetan monasteries, Rongbuk Monastery |
| Visual Landscape | Forests, glaciers, Himalayan villages | Arid high plateau, vast alpine desert |
| Local Interaction | High (homestays, teahouses) | Limited (checkpoint-controlled access) |
Which route — the Southeast Ridge or the Northeast Ridge — allows a faster ascent?
The Northeast Ridge of Mount Everest offers a “fast-track” or alpine-style ascent. The reason why the Southeast ridge bypass the Khumbu Icefall, deploy fewer fixed ropes, and reach Base Camp in 2–3 days. However, this has enormous risks involved, considering rapid gain of altitude, harsh cold, winds, and poor rescues. The South Face/southeast ridge requires a 12–14 days trek, with safer acclimatization.
Which route is more budget-friendly for an ascent?
Although the North Face/Northeast Ridge route permit is cheaper slightly in totality, compulsory agency packages negate the economy. On the South Face/Southeast Ridge, a few Nepali operators offer cheaper options, usually larger groups, inexperienced guides, and second-hand gear, at greater risk. Department of Nepal Tourism and NMA take strict safety measures seriously.
What is the Hillary step?
The Hillary Step is an almost 12 meters vertical rock wall near the summit of Mount Everest on the South Route/Southeast Ridge. Climbers must ascend the Hillary summit just below the summit ridge. However, the Hillary step was altered due to the 2015 earthquake, but Hillary Step is still a challenging obstacle to overcome.
What is the Chinese ladder?
The Chinese Ladder is located in the north face route of Mount Everest, which is a fixed metal ladder on the Second Step. Climbers use it to climb a nearly vertical 10-meter rock face on the Northeast Ridge. The ladder, installed by Chinese climbers in 1975, is helping but also causing bottlenecks on attempts on the summit.
What is the South col?
The South Col is a point of elevation around 7,900 meters that is located in between Mount Everest and Lhotse. The South Col is the final camp or Camp IV for ascenders before attempting the summit of Mount Everest. Due to Extreme cold and high winds make the south col a harsh, exposed, and critical resting point. So, the south Col is also known as “Death Zone”.
What is the North Col?
The North Col or the Camp IV of the Mount Everest of the North Face is a glaciated saddle on the Northeast Ridge of Mount Everest, at about 7,000 meters between Everest and Changtse. The North Col is used by climbers as the first major high camp above Advanced Base Camp. The North Col is a vital intermediary stop for the ascent to the Northeast Ridge.
Where is Mount Everest? / Who owns Mount Everest China or Nepal?
Mount Everest is part of both countries. It is located in the Himalayas on the border between Nepal and the Tibet Autonomous Region of China. Hence, both countries Nepal and China owns the Mount Everest.
Final Verdict: Which Route Is Right for You?
While climbing Mount Everest, some aspects of expedition should consider carefully. This aspects include rescue is paramount, acclimatization is non-negotiable, and experienced operator choice is crucial. These aspects are greatly assured by the South Face route of Mount Everest, which is located on the Nepal side.
- Choose the South Face Route (Nepal side) if:
- You value significantly better helicopter rescue options.
- You prefer a longer, culturally rich trek for acclimatization.
- You can manage the objective hazard of the Khumbu Icefall both mentally and physically.
- You want slightly higher historical success rates (weather dependent).
- You can handle or manage the potential for significant crowding.
- Choose the North Face Route (Tibet side) if:
- You prioritize experiencing Everest in a (generally) less crowded environment except the Second Step.
- You are prepared for and highly resilient to extreme cold and wind.
- You have excellent self-sufficiency and altitude resilience for an environment with minimal high-altitude rescue.
- You want to avoid the Khumbu Icefall (but understand the trade-offs).
- You are comfortable with the mandatory logistics structure through Chinese agencies.
